We visited the site of the Jewish Ghetto (in Podgorze) on the other side of the river in the morning and spent the afternoon/evening wandering our way through the bars of Kazimierz. It was the best day I've spent in Krakow.

Everybody talks about Kazimierz with its young and funky atmosphere, but I hadn't heard so much about Podgorze. The river is about 20 mins walk from the main square and as soon as you cross it you're in the Ghetto Heroes Square with it's atmospheric memorial of empty chairs. Visit the Pharmacy under the Eagle which has been turned into a small museum (it's on the opposite corner of the square - keep going, it's not obvious until you're literally outside it!) to get a handle on what it used to be like. The displays are pretty meaningless without the audio tour, so spend your zlotys and get informed. When you've done that, cross the road using the underpass, follow your map, go through the foot-tunnel under the railway and find yourself at the Schindler Enamel factory. It wasn't very well signposted, or that easy to find on foot, but it's about 8-10 mins walk from the Ghetto Heroes Square. It was being renovated when we were there - looks like they're finally going to turn it into something, rather than the basic display there at the moment.

After a subdued morning we hit Kazimierz, and I can't recommend the bars and restaurants of this area highly enough. Stick to soft drinks/halves of the lethal beer/one drink per establishment, and you should be able to manage at least 10 of the fantastic bars - every one has something unique about it, and they're all within stumbling distance of each other - just keep going round and round!

I used the Cracow-Life website a lot beforehand, and you can also pick up free copies of the paper version in most bars - lots of info, especially on going out.

Get yourself to Krakow and enjoy a fabulous, accessible city with a great atmosphere and friendly locals.

www.cracow-life.com/

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I've been to Krakow twice now and used these guys both times. Staying in an apartment if there's a group of you is definitely the way to go. Both apartments were less than 5 mins walk from the main square and though basic, were very clean and had everything you might need including a washing machine, ironing board etc.

The website is a bit basic, but don't let that put you off. The staff are very friendly, speak excellent English, and can also help with organising trips to Auchwitz and the Salt Mines if you want a chauffered trip (warning - the price is a lot higher than the public tours, but you're paying for a personalised service).

They also pick you up from the airport (5 euros per car) and take you to the apartment which takes all the stress out of getting to your accomodation. They also provided us with maps etc.

I've been very happy with them both times - give them a go!

www.sodispar.pl/

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If there's more than three of you, then I'd always recommend going for an apartment. It usually works out only a little bit more expensive than a hostel, and is worth it's weight in gold for the added privacy and ease of meeting up and/or staying in!

I stayed with 7 other people in Opera 1 through Escape to Prague following the Guardian recommendation, and it was excellent. Lovely place, clean, roomy and three bathrooms/toilets.

If you're going to hostel it, again I'd recommend paying a little bit extra and going for somewhere nice. Miss Sophie's was excellent, and far enough out to avoid the crowds, but close enough to stroll into town.

Check out Banditos opposite for a friendly drink, and The Crow for some late night supping of that gorgeous beer!

www.escapetoprague.com/
www.miss-sophies.com/

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