I visited Salta for some respite after traveling through from Columbia and the countries southwards. Salta feels luxurious after the tough living conditions of Bolivia and a 24hour bus journey from Potosi.
Staying at lower altitude, with its warmth, oxygen, shops that sell stuff you need was really useful, as was the vast improvement in cuisine.
Two days after my arrival I booked to go riding on a ranch an hour south of Salta.
There I met the family, who'd farmed the area for generations. Their herdsmen showed me the horses. They were huge, magnificent beasts, far larger than anything I'd previously ridden. I was given one, and we set out. A full day's riding destroyed me. The herdsmen rode their horses like they were attached to them, effortlessly and painlessly. I tried to keep up. A mountain of a horse, galloping at full speed is something of beauty and also of terror as you hold the reins with one hand, balance with the other behind you and grip the horse with your thighs.
I've rarely been filled with such terror and exhilaration. I am a novice horse rider so the horse seemed to have control of the situation, adding further to the sense that I had less control over the situation than I would have liked to have.
I survived. The gaucho's were great, interesting guy's who loved their horses and their lives. I ate that evening with the family. The father was in charge of grilling the most perfect meat (beef and lamb) and the table was covered with delicious food and gorgeous local wine.
I ached afterward for a week! My tip is warm up, warm down and maybe select a horse that is small and is almost ready for the big ranch in the sky. You may not have the adrenaline based excitement, but at least you may be able to walk again.

There are a handful of farms that allow you to ride. I found the place via my hostel in Salta - sorry I don't have the details.

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