This is probably the best "marisqueira", i.e. seafood restaurant, in the greater Lisbon region. It is located in downtown Vila Franca de Xira, a small city to the NE of Lisbon (about 24 km from Lisbon) known for its bullfighting tradition. You can reach the city by car (less than 30 min on the A1 motorway) or by train (Vila Franca de Xira station, from Oriente or Santa Apolónia stations in Lisbon).
The restaurant serves a wonderful "sapateira" (brown crab). Make sure you order the buttered toasted bread onto which you spread the paste that comes inside the crab's shell. Try the amêijoas à Bulhão Pato too. These are some of the best clams in Portugal. And, of course, try the typically Iberian "percebes" (goose barnacles).
Everything is fresh, good quality, and cooked to perfection. It is not touristy at all. Its clients are locals. I know the restaurant isn't open every day of the week, but cannot recall which day it isn't (so call before visiting).
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