This is a pedestrian street lined with lots of bars, along from the Old Mosque in Monasteraki. On a spring bank holiday afternoon all the cafes were packed with Greeks drinking and chatting away - the volume of people talking without any background music is amazing in itself. There were also loads of people selling cheap handbags and sunglasses so you can get the kit to pose like the locals.

Monastiraki

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This area is a little warren of streets radiating out from Iroon Square. It’s close to Monastiraki, but being just a fraction further from the Agora and Acropolis, it’s a bit cheaper. There are lots of restaurants, bars and cafes all close by so you can just pick whichever place looks most tempting on the night.

Just north of Metro Monastiriki

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Usually I look at design or boutique hotels, salivate wildly, and then can't afford them - especially as I'm often travelling alone. My room at the Fresh Hotel was only 100 euro - spacious, stylish, with a balcony and particularly comfortable bed. The whole place is beautiful and glamorous. My only regret was that the rooftop swimming pool was closed in February so I'll have to go back in the summer. It’s also a good, central location and easy for the metro from the airport.

www.freshhotel.gr;
26 Sophocleous St

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This is a Byzantine church in the same grassy park as the Agora and the Thession - at the foot of the hill north of the Acropolis. It’s a tiny church with a few faded frescos of saints and some carved stonework. It’s just very atmospheric - dark and intimate and peaceful. Also I think its worth walking round to the Thession for the views back over the Agora towards the Acropolis – it’s part of the city where you really feel 'Oh, the ancients walked here'.

The Agora archaeological park

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This is a big covered market. It’s quite fun to watch the locals buying their fish and chickens but for visitors I recommend it for the fruit and nuts. I stocked up on pistachio nuts for munching while I was sightseeing and came home with bags of dried figs and pine nuts at bargain prices compared to England. You can also buy slabs of halva if you have a sweet tooth.

Athinas Street, between Omonia and Monastiraki metro stations

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