Take a scenic detour on your way to the Bay of Islands via the Tutukaka coast drive through Ngnunguru and Tutukaka. Stop at Matapouri for a swim, it's a beautiful beach.

If you want to stay, Bluewater Cottages are up in the hills between Matapouri and Tutukaka with beautiful views over the ocean and out to the Poor Knights Islands

Bluewater cottages,Matapouri Rd, 09-434-3423. Approx 26km northeast of Whangarei

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As you drive along SH35 you wonder if anyone else knows about this remote part of the North Island. You can drive for what seems like hours before you see another car. You wave, not because you know them, but you just do!

If you plan to break your journey, book up accommodation before you set out. Whakatane visitor centre can help. Try and go when the pohutukawa trees are flowering.

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To get a less touristy trip, try to get to Milford earlier in the day before the coach parties arrive from Queenstown and go on the smaller boats -these can go close to the sides of the sound, under waterfalls etc, rather than on the big red boats powering up and down the sound full of video and camera-touting tourists!

For a more remote trip go to Doubtful Sound via the power station but make sure you have plently of bug spray, the sandflies can be terrible.

Te Anau visitor information centre, lakefront drive. for lots of useful info on trips as well as info on road and weather conditions which is vital if you plan to drive to Milford Sound.

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