Kambol go-karting track is great fun for a group (maybe a substitute adrenaline-booster if you don't fancy the idea of the shooting range). 10 USD buys 10 to 15 minutes, cars are pretty speedy!

Head out of town, about 10 minutes after the airport, opposite side of the road.

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Friendly guesthouse run by an Austrian guy, Michael. Really close to the old market and bars at the centre of town. Free breakfast and bikes, reliable tuk-tuk drivers and hot water available.

Wat Damnak Street, tel:011-221838, email: gutmeyr_m2gmx.at, www.queenvilla.com

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Train tickets are sold from more than one ticket office, and hotels and hostels seem to have different sources.

So, if the tour/ticket desk where you're staying can't book you a ticket for the day or time you want to travel it's definitely worth asking at another hotel - they may find you the ticket you want from someone else.

Tourist desk in hotel / hostel foyers.

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If you're staying for a couple of days, it's worth cultivating a regular moto driver (many guesthouses have a bunch of reputable guys).

Saves hassle, and can be great if you strike up a rapport, even better if they speak a bit of English.

Pay 2000 riel per journey (maybe 3000 at 3am), or negotiate a day rate.

Plus if you're planning on being out late, having a moto driver you trust who you can ring up on a mobile is worth the extra peace of mind.

Ask your guesthouse owner

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If you are planning to buy a three-day pass for Angkor, go and buy it the night before - you should be able to get in for sunset that same day as well for no extra charge. Bring a passport photo.

Ticket office, main entance to Angkor Wat

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A cafe/bar/bookshop on the street at the foot of Wat Phu Sii (east side, away from the Mekong). As well as swapping your books they have a vast range of back issues of National Geographic you can browse over your tea or coffee.

Thanon Latsavong, Luang Prabang

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As well as the usual Jinshanling or Simatai Great Wall tours, you can also explore other parts which are completely unrestored. Beijing Leo Hostel run a tour/hike to Secret Shen Shui Hu for 100rmb.

It should be noted that you're not always following the path of the wall itself, and if you want to get the 'classic' wall experience (and photos) take another tour instead of, or as well as, this one. On the other hand, you will definitely avoid crowds and hawkers.

Beijing Leo Hostel, Guang Ju Yuan, 52, Da Zha Lan Xi Jie, Qianmen

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Sunday flower market, good for buying fresh flowers and plants, but also great just to walk about. Plenty of cafes and shops to poke about in too, and within walking distance of Brick Lane (for a curry) or Kingsland Road (for Vietnamese).

Columbia Road, Hackney E2

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Don't let fear of getting ripped off stop you taking a taxi. Just be prepared to insist they use the meter, rather than giving you a flat-rate quote. Some drivers may refuse, if so, just try another. At least you get air-con when the traffic's bad.

Incidentally, the taxi drivers with Buddhist texts written on their cabs’ ceilings, seem to be more amiable - just an observation.

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A good places to shop for gifts, cheap essentials for more comfortable backpacking (sarongs, bamboo mats) and, erm, computer software. Be prepared to haggle good-naturedly for excellent bargains. Also great for cheap noodles and ice desserts.

South of central Phnom Penh,
Phsar Toul Tom Poung (streets 155 and 50)

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Mentioned elsewhere already, but you should definitely go to the restaurant there - absolutely the best food i had in China.

All vegetarian, but incredibly skilful tofu imitations of traditional sichuan dishes - ever seen a whole 'fish' made of tofu? Go with a couple of other people and order a range of pot luck dishes. It's cheap too.

Wuhouci Road

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