Wine buffs with a penchant for South Africa will need little introduction to Saxenberg, and this highly rated vineyard offers tastings and slightly reduced prices on its excellent wines. But the main reason for visiting is its excellent restaurant, the Guinea Fowl. Seriously impressive cooking is coupled with not-too-formal service. Three of us had 'the works' for a birthday lunch and somehow the bill came to less than 1,000 rand. In the summer it is hard to beat lunch on the terrace, with hazy views of the back of Table Mountain. It's also one of the closest vineyards to Cape Town and only 15 minutes by car to the main airport.

T: +27 21 903 6113
E: info@saxenburg.com
W: www.saxenburg.com
Physical Address:
Saxenburg Wine Farm
Polkadraai Road
Kuils River
7580
Postal Address:
PO Box 171
Kuils River
7579

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Luxury boutique hotel in the Heritage Square part of the city centre, convenient for Cape Quarter, shopping, the bus to the Table Mountain cable car and only 15 minutes walk to the Robben Island ferry. The rooms are all different, some with very original touches. The staff are, in a word, amazing. No request seems to exceed their knowledge and skills, but they are never patronising. Moreover, the hotel has led the regeneration of Heritage Square, transforming a site designated for demolition into a block of gentrification. It's not a cheap option in Cape Town, but I cannot imagine you regretting the cost. Spoil yourself!

90 Bree Street, Cape Town, South Africa
PO Box 4475, Cape Town, 8000, South Africa
E: info@capeheritage.co.za
T: +27 21 424 4646
W: www.capeheritage.co.za

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Many guides rave about the 164 boutique guest house and it's easy to see why: For 700/1100 Rand per night (single/double) you get huge, stylish rooms with en-suite facilities and cable TV. Breakfast is freshly cooked on demand - impeccable scrambled eggs, for example - and the service manages to be both personable and discreet. There is a small bar for residents and a selection of OK restaurants in walking distance.

164 St. Thomas Road
Musgrave
Durban, 4001
t: +27 31 201 4493
e: info@164.co.za
w: www.164.co.za

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Accommodation in St Lucia is either depressingly dull or very much at the bottom of the backpacker category. The exception is the lovingly run Lidiko Lodge, on a quiet section of the main street but with all its 16 stylish chalet-style rooms at the rear so you should get a quiet night's sleep. The owners downsized from legal careers in Pretoria and preside over an excellent staff who look after everything. Accommodation is in large comfortable en-suite double rooms. There is private car parking at the rear. Excellent breakfast is served on the front terrace, accompanied by the St Lucia clan of vervet monkeys. There is even a small range of local crafts on sale. Unbeatable.

Lidiko Lodge
McKenzie Street
St Lucia
KwaZulu-Natal
t: +27 35 590 1581
e: lidiko@wetlands.co.za

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To reach Ibo independently you will have to get a chapa ride from Pemba (or even more demandingly by changing rides on the rough road from Macomia), from where you will reach Quissanga. From there it is a short ride down to the ocean at Tandanhangue. Usually the chapa runs to meet the high tide and an unforgettable dhow ride to Ibo Island. Be aware that other islands are served from the same departure point. If you do get stuck - perhaps at the low spring tides - there is a shelter to sleep overnight, or perhaps you will find a bed in the village itself.

Any trip on a dhow is rewarding, but approaching the dilapidated fortifications of Ibo is especially memorable. The price locals pay for the one-way trip is NMT 40.

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The area of bars and dives around the evangelical church opposite the main Post Office is undistinguished except for this surprisingly civilised restaurant. It serves Portuguese and Mozambican meals in a large open area. Excellent cooking and range of beers and wines.

Rua 25 de Setembro - Parque do Desportivo
Pemba
tel: +258 272 20415

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This small shop in a dead-end street just off Haile Selassie in Msasani sells all sorts of produce that will warm the hearts of caricature Guardian readers: organic nuts, seeds and other foods including excellent jams; hand woven textiles; products made of recycled materials. Excellent service and fair prices attract a wide clientele, but obviously mainly catering to the large local expat community.

Tel: 0744 847 312
e: joyce_lyapanga@hotmail.com
www.lutoni.com

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All the possible processes in fish trading can be seen in one place. The catch is landed from boats onto the shore, from where it goes straight to the auction section to be sold to wholesalers. From there it is a quick trip across the road, past the stalls selling shells and other fishy artefacts and to the retail section.

At the back the fish is fried in a haze of fire and smoke and ready for selling to the public.

On the shore and at the end of Ocean Drive where it turns into Kivukoni Front

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This is a hotel and restaurant on one of the main streets in Ibo town, not as exclusive (nor, indeed, pricey) as Ibo Island Lodge but with many charms. Accommodation is in rooms leading off from the central courtyard, which also has a small swimming pool facing the ocean. The cooking is recommended, but - as is the case with almost anywhere on Ibo - you need to book in advance to guarantee that they will feed you.

tel: +258 826286858
cincoportas@yahoo.com
www.cincoportas.com
Postal address (not the address of the hotel itself): Caixa Postal 121
Pemba
Cabo Delgado
Mozambique

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If you are looking at visiting Kilwa, you will already know that these two islands nearby are home to a series of interesting historic sites. It is worth noting that both of the islands can be visited on a single day without undue pressure of time. If you charter a dhow and hire a guide, take a picnic lunch to enjoy on the trip between the two islands. If you are lucky it will be in a dhow under sail and lunches don't get much better scenery than this.

Ask your hotel/resort in Kilwa Masoko to make arrangements

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Just outside the 'centre' of Kilwa Masoko (ie. a 10-15 minute walk), this collection of ensuite chalets sits in grounds on a headland with amazing views over the sandy bay of Kilwa Masoko and towards Kilwa Kisiwani island.

The resort is very professionally managed and keen to make visitors welcome. Activities organised by the resort - tours, diving, etc - seem very well organised and reasonably priced. There is a special path from the resort down to the beach. The restaurant is recommended, too.

tel: 022 265 0250/1
e: info@kilwa.net
www.kilwa.net

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A great location on a high bluff overlooking the Tarangire River and well-managed ensuite permanent tents makes this excellent value for staying in Tarangire National Park. From the terrace there should be views of elephants, water buffalo, zebra, giraffes and other game. It is located about 15 minutes' drive from the main park entrance and has easy access to all the main circuits round the park. There is a small swimming pool. The only downside is that the meals in the spacious restaurant are less than special.

tel: 027 253 1447
e: sss@habari.co.tz
www.tarangiresafarilodge.com

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A sensible mid-price option for accommodation in/near Arusha, located on the east side of the city and therefore towards Kilimanjaro airport. Six ensuite chalets (some sleeping up to four people) occupy a lush garden, with a dining area nearby. It is not far from the main road to Moshi, but it would be a great challenge to find the place for the first time after dusk.

tel: 027 250 9205
e: info@klubafriko.com

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Terrific restaurant down a quiet street in historic centre of Ravenna close to S. Vitale. Manages to get the balance right between seriousness and informality, with real enthusiasm in its service and pride in its ambitious and eclectic cooking and selection of wines.

Via Gamba, 12
48100 Ravenna
Tel/fax +39 0544 215393

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Everything you hear about it sounds terrible: it is located immediately opposite the airport terminal, it is part of a chain and they charge 46 euros for a single (54 for a double). The reality could not be more different. It is less than a year old; the staff are charming and courteous; even if your room faces the runway and you can see the planes taxiing, the soundproofing is so good you cannot hear them take off; if you want to have a picnic in your room the terminal has a couple of quite nice food stores (one with assorted local delicacies) and there is a stall selling seafood snacks outside; and the rooms are spotless, intelligently designed and with flat screen TVs and multiple cable channels. If you are fearing having to stay the night at Hahn Airport (it truly is in the middle of nowhere) for an early departure or late arrival, you are in for a pleasant surprise.

Gebäude 619
55483 Hahn
Tel. +49 6543 / 8180-0
Fax. +49 06543/8180-555
www.hotel-bb.com

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Sick of the layers of history in Istanbul? OK, that's unlikely, but here's an alternative for the culturally omnivorous.

Officially the Istanbul Modern Art Museum, it has both a permanent collection of modern Turkish art and visiting exhibitions and installations and is located in the Tophane district, between Karaköy and Dolmabaçhe palace.

Its location is not obvious, though it is not far from the tramway that runs along Necatibey Caddesi - it is on the waterfront, in a converted warehouse-type building, with stunning views of the Bosphorus from its café. Though some detractors will take delight in spotting international influences on some of the Turkish artists, the place itself is a model of museum/gallery planning, with an excellent shop and impressive education activities.

www.istanbulmodern.org/

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There are plenty of grand mosques to visit in Istanbul thanks to master builder Mimar Siman, but this small jewel of his beats them all in terms of intimacy and decoration.

The tiles are simply sensational, full of stylised tulips, carnations and geometrical shapes. It is located not far from the Eminönü end of the Galata Bridge, though it is not easy to spot the entrance , but when you look lost local shopkeepers sympathetically show you how to get in.

The advantage is that few tourists seem to find it, and you may get to look around in glorious silence.

In the alleyways about 100m to the north-west of the Spice Bazaar at the end of Galata Bridge, not to be confused with the much larger Yeni Camii in front of the ferry terminals. There are two entrances, up steps between small shops - neither of them looks like it leads to a mosque, so persist.

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In the basement of the Kariye Hotel, spilling into the secluded garden. It is not cheap, but it is a perfect, civilised place for lunch before/after visiting the delights of the Kariye Mosque (St Saviour Church) museum and a modest lunch of mezze will not cost you a fortune.

Kariye Camii Sok 18
tel 0212/534 8414

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In many ways this is a superior three-star hotel, and the service is attentive. It is located on a sidestreet off Divan Yolu Caddesi, easy walking distance to all the Sultanahmet sites.

Their website and online reservation service is impressive. However, the real treat is to book one of the deluxe suites (one twin, one double, I think) on the top floor for at least three days, reserve in advance and pay in cash. That gets you B&B accommodation, two free transfers from the airport, and discounts on the price - and a balcony with views over Haghia/Aya Sofia and the Blue Mosque towards the Bosphorus and the Princess Islands!

We paid Euros 450 for four nights, which is not at all bad for central Istanbul in the high season.

Tel : + 90 212 5165264
Fax : + 90 212 6383059
E-mail : reservation@istanbulhotelnena.com
sales@istanbulhotelnena.com
info@istanbulhotelnena.com

www.istanbulhotelnena.com

Address : Binbirdirek Mah. Klodfarer Cad. No: 8/10 34122
Sultanahmet
Istanbul

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Though part of the Apamea Cham Hotel, it is located on the other side of the road, with spectacular views of four of the noria water wheels which moan as they turn, and its independent access means that most diners at night come from outside the hotel.

The menu is varied (the only non-expensive place in Syria where I found fish available) and prices are very reasonable for excellent cooking. Beer and spirits are served. The only downside is that you are sitting on one of the key sites of the dramatic suppression of the 1982 Hama uprising.

To the north of the centre of Hama, on the east side of the Orontes river and adjacent to Apamea Cham Hotel. Open for dinner, but not necessarily for lunch.

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