Terrific restaurant down a quiet street in historic centre of Ravenna close to S. Vitale. Manages to get the balance right between seriousness and informality, with real enthusiasm in its service and pride in its ambitious and eclectic cooking and selection of wines.

Via Gamba, 12
48100 Ravenna
Tel/fax +39 0544 215393

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Everything you hear about it sounds terrible: it is located immediately opposite the airport terminal, it is part of a chain and they charge 46 euros for a single (54 for a double). The reality could not be more different. It is less than a year old; the staff are charming and courteous; even if your room faces the runway and you can see the planes taxiing, the soundproofing is so good you cannot hear them take off; if you want to have a picnic in your room the terminal has a couple of quite nice food stores (one with assorted local delicacies) and there is a stall selling seafood snacks outside; and the rooms are spotless, intelligently designed and with flat screen TVs and multiple cable channels. If you are fearing having to stay the night at Hahn Airport (it truly is in the middle of nowhere) for an early departure or late arrival, you are in for a pleasant surprise.

Gebäude 619
55483 Hahn
Tel. +49 6543 / 8180-0
Fax. +49 06543/8180-555
www.hotel-bb.com

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Sick of the layers of history in Istanbul? OK, that's unlikely, but here's an alternative for the culturally omnivorous.

Officially the Istanbul Modern Art Museum, it has both a permanent collection of modern Turkish art and visiting exhibitions and installations and is located in the Tophane district, between Karaköy and Dolmabaçhe palace.

Its location is not obvious, though it is not far from the tramway that runs along Necatibey Caddesi - it is on the waterfront, in a converted warehouse-type building, with stunning views of the Bosphorus from its café. Though some detractors will take delight in spotting international influences on some of the Turkish artists, the place itself is a model of museum/gallery planning, with an excellent shop and impressive education activities.

www.istanbulmodern.org/

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There are plenty of grand mosques to visit in Istanbul thanks to master builder Mimar Siman, but this small jewel of his beats them all in terms of intimacy and decoration.

The tiles are simply sensational, full of stylised tulips, carnations and geometrical shapes. It is located not far from the Eminönü end of the Galata Bridge, though it is not easy to spot the entrance , but when you look lost local shopkeepers sympathetically show you how to get in.

The advantage is that few tourists seem to find it, and you may get to look around in glorious silence.

In the alleyways about 100m to the north-west of the Spice Bazaar at the end of Galata Bridge, not to be confused with the much larger Yeni Camii in front of the ferry terminals. There are two entrances, up steps between small shops - neither of them looks like it leads to a mosque, so persist.

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In the basement of the Kariye Hotel, spilling into the secluded garden. It is not cheap, but it is a perfect, civilised place for lunch before/after visiting the delights of the Kariye Mosque (St Saviour Church) museum and a modest lunch of mezze will not cost you a fortune.

Kariye Camii Sok 18
tel 0212/534 8414

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In many ways this is a superior three-star hotel, and the service is attentive. It is located on a sidestreet off Divan Yolu Caddesi, easy walking distance to all the Sultanahmet sites.

Their website and online reservation service is impressive. However, the real treat is to book one of the deluxe suites (one twin, one double, I think) on the top floor for at least three days, reserve in advance and pay in cash. That gets you B&B accommodation, two free transfers from the airport, and discounts on the price - and a balcony with views over Haghia/Aya Sofia and the Blue Mosque towards the Bosphorus and the Princess Islands!

We paid Euros 450 for four nights, which is not at all bad for central Istanbul in the high season.

Tel : + 90 212 5165264
Fax : + 90 212 6383059
E-mail : reservation@istanbulhotelnena.com
sales@istanbulhotelnena.com
info@istanbulhotelnena.com

www.istanbulhotelnena.com

Address : Binbirdirek Mah. Klodfarer Cad. No: 8/10 34122
Sultanahmet
Istanbul

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Though part of the Apamea Cham Hotel, it is located on the other side of the road, with spectacular views of four of the noria water wheels which moan as they turn, and its independent access means that most diners at night come from outside the hotel.

The menu is varied (the only non-expensive place in Syria where I found fish available) and prices are very reasonable for excellent cooking. Beer and spirits are served. The only downside is that you are sitting on one of the key sites of the dramatic suppression of the 1982 Hama uprising.

To the north of the centre of Hama, on the east side of the Orontes river and adjacent to Apamea Cham Hotel. Open for dinner, but not necessarily for lunch.

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Situated about 40 kms NW of Aleppo, this ruined basilica and associated buildings is famous for being the place where St Simeon sat on his pillar for 36 years. But its real attraction is the stunning site and spectacular architecture, the church when completed in 490 AD was the largest in the world. Visiting St Simeon combines well with many of the nearby Dead Cities and other sites in the region.

A few kms beyond Deir Semaan. Entrance 150 Syrian pounds.

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Rated three-star, and accessed rather unattractively by lift from a dingy corridor near the clock tower in the centre of Hama, this well located hotel is distinguished by exceptionally helpful staff. When asking where I might buy a replacement camera case, they arranged for one of the staff who is a tailor by day to stitch my broken strap.

Very good at arranging day trips to sites such as Apamea and Krak des Chavaliers, and working out how you might share with other visitors or those staying at the Cairo hotel which the management also owns. Taxi from the bus station should be 50 Syrian pounds.

tel (33) 512414

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Unless you are planning to spend a fortune on one of the two Cham chain hotels, this is the best hotel in Tadmor.

It's rated three stars. Many of the rooms have great views across the palmery to the famous ruins. It is about five minutes walk to the Archaeological Museum (from which transport runs to the Valley of the Tombs) and about a further 15 minutes to the Sanctuary of Bel.

PO Box 75, Palmyra/Tadmor, Syria

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Aleppo is famous for its olive oil soap, much of which is mixed with other oils so there is a great choice.

The most precious of the regular combinations has 60% laurel oil and sells for 75 Syrian pounds (about 75p) per block. Try to track down a bar from Al Joubali soap factory in the old city.

Widely available in the souks of Aleppo

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Of the listed restaurants in the Christian quarter of Aleppo, this is the best value in terms of atmosphere and food. It has two entrances, one signed from the side of the Armenian cathedral and the other from Qastal Ibshir Pasha street. Beer and wine on offer.

See above for directions. tel 2224462.

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100 metres from the souk complex, very much part of the old city, this 18th century house has been converted for bed and breakfast accommodation (12 rooms).

It would be hard to imagine anywhere with more atmosphere, even if the facilities are not luxurious. Very helpful staff, happy to organise day-trips at a reasonable price. The only drawback is that it's a 20 minute walk to the Christian quarter if you want to have a restaurant meal with alcohol. I paid £12.50 per night for a single.

Clearly marked by signs, about 200m from the Bab Antakia gate to the Old City. www.halabiatours.com

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Very acceptable 4-star hotel. Great for exploring Padova, but even better for visiting Venice by train (30-40 minutes) to avoid paying crazy prices to stay in that city.

35131 Padova
Corso del Popolo, 81
Tel +39 049 8761111
Fax +39 049 8750850
info@hotelgranditalia.it
booking@hotelgranditalia.it
www.hotelgranditalia.com/

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Like most parts of Latin America, you can buy tatty souvenirs in Bogotá. If you are looking for high quality, authentic and tasteful gifts, Galeria Cano is the solution. The handicrafts have information about their makers. The styles are often subtle. The prices are expensive by Colombian standards, but cheap by Western ones. And the staff at the airport shop are great.

Shops in Centro Comercial Urbino and at International Airport in Bogotá and at Plaza Bolivar in Cartagena.
www.galeriacano.com.co/index.htm

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Want to get close to real neighbourhoods in a Latin American city but not too close? This huge cable car project was built by the authorities in Medellin to link the normal (mainly overland) metro system with some hillside communities. The ride is free if you have a metro ticket, completely safe and with fantastic views. Connect to Metro Cable at Acevedo on line A.

www.metrodemedellin.org.co/portal/contenidos.asp?sec=2&subsec=24&pagina=1

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As a 'regular' at the much grander Hotel de la Opera, I was intrigued to stay several nights in this cheaper option in Candelaria historic district. The attempt to create a boutique hotel in a lovely old building has its quirks and is somewhat ramshackle, but it will suit anyone who does not expect 5-star comforts. Don't expect English to be spoken.

Dirección CALLE 9 NO. 6 45
Teléfonos 3421108
Email hotelcasadelabotica@hotmail.com

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A special type of haven from city life on the waterfront, inspired by Bach's music for cello and involving the great player Yo-Yo Ma in its design. It can be appreciated for its musical invention, or simply in terms of ingenious garden design, and it's free. Summer open-air concerts are a special treat.

At Queen's Quay West, not far from the main harbour front area;
www.toronto.ca/parks/music_index.htm

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Fast, friendly and affordable service from Spain to Tangiers (or 'Tanger'). The day-trips are inevitably formulaic, with set routes round the old city of Tangiers, but led by well-informed and interesting guides. Even if this is a digression from your travel in Spain, try to fit in the FRS package of one night's stay in Tangiers, which is amazingly cheap and lets you make your own way around the old city and find true bargains in the markets and shops.

FRS Iberia S.L. Estación Maritima P.O. / Aptdo. de correos, 13 11380 Tarifa - Cádiz Booking Tel.: +(34) 956 68 18 30 Fax: +(34) 956 62 71 80 e: info@frs.es w: www.frs.es

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Independent wine-producing 'quinta' owned by Brits with better-than-most connections to local Portuguese society. Just far enough from Pinhão town (15-20 minuites walk along the riverside road) to make you feel splendidly isloated, but convenient for the few amenities that the town offers. The small number of rooms and the immediate connection with wine production (most of the rooms sit virtually on top of the maturation cellars) makes it special at any time of year, but harvest time is great. For groups wanting to stay longer, whole houses set in the estate are available. And the wine and port are pretty good, too!

Quinta de la Rosa, Pinhão 5085-215 Portugal Tel: + 351 254 732254 Fax: + 351 254 732346 e: rooms@quintadelarosa.com www.quintadelarosa.com

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